There's some good advice here, but you don't have a clue how to pick cams if you're considering some of these user replies to be data points or think you've provided enough for us to recommend something intelligent. So essentially with thumpers they're advertising the idle quality doesn't match top end performance. It's what holds you from going bigger and badder. With street cams you go for idle manners, because that's the weak point of big cams in street cars. I think you can trust it, but it really is a case of "garbage in = garbage out".Īctually it should be about the performance, then the sound just happens to fall in line. Being careful with my input, the software put me in about 425 HP, right where I was aiming with my build copied from a couple of magazine builds that I've researched very well. I can create a combo in the software that makes 517 HP, but that isn't realistic for my parts. Just be real with the data you feed it and the expectations you have. It's a trip to see how different changes affect power and torque. You can play with all the options by downloading their camquest software. They expect pro builders to know their shit. If this will be your first conversation on that topic, expect general reccomendations on the safe side. Their tech line can help a lot, but you need all the details. It may be a couple thousandths short on lift, but it's within the tolerances I expected.Īs far as a better cam for performance, that is all relative to your situation. The marketing campaign is kinda cheesy, but I am sure they get tons of calls asking for that "knarly, race car, lope".Īnyways, once degreed in, it matched the spec card very closely. I built mine for a real 11:1+ compression and want every bit of cylinder pressure I can get. All the cams available today, short of max race, have wide separation to create vacumme for power brakes and idle well with efi. It is about as much overlap as you can get anymore. I chose it specifically to get the narrow lobe separation (107*). Local speedshop owner tells me that in all his years he has never seen a roller cam install correctly out of the box. I finally installed a cam bushing to nail the specs on the card. It was retarded 3-4 degrees when timing set was straight up and each key way was + and - 5-6 degrees. I figured there was something machined wrong crank key way, timing set, cam or maybe stack of tolerances in all three. (late model OE roller cam) I finally told Summit to send me the middle weight. I had ordered the big mutha, but it was back ordered for weeks and was pushed back twice.
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